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Postcard from...Kwajalein

Andre Vltchek | June 24, 2008

Editor: John Feffer

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Foreign Policy In Focus

What the U.S. Army leaves behind. Photo by Andre Vltchek
Kwajalein island, a Pacific atoll in the Republic of the Marshall Islands (RMI), is a high-tech playground for those who still share Ronald Reagan’s dream of dominating space with a “Star Wars” missile defense system. The island is rimmed by rotting metal pieces of unknown origin and dotted with huge radar installations and missile interceptors. The U.S. missile defense program launches long-range missiles from California, They fly over 6,000 miles before being shot down by the interceptors. In some cases, the U.S. army allows a missile to fall into the bay as a successful “hit” on the target of the atoll’s lagoon.

“We will send the U.S. troops packing if we ever win the elections, I was told some time ago by two rebellious Kwajelein senators, Tony deBrum and Michael Kabua. After the November 2007 elections, Senator deBrum became foreign minister but there is hardly any talk of ejecting U.S. military and civil contractors from RMI. The island chain is too financially dependent on the world’s sole superpower.

Just one mile away from the sterile military barracks of Kwajalein, the tiny island of Ebeye is unofficially called the “Slum of the Pacific.” More than 15.000 people, many of them refugees or descendants of refugees from the 15-megaton Castle Bravo nuclear test at Bikini Atoll on March 1, 1954, are crammed into 80 acres of land with inadequate medical facilities, water and electric supply, and waste management. Their traditional diet gone, they are now fully dependent on Spam, bacon, and junk food. The diabetes rate is high.

Almost all Ebeye residents depend on uncertain jobs at the U.S. base on Kwajalein, Motorized military barges shuttle the few “lucky ones” to work every morning. The military programs from Kwaj, beamed over by the U.S. Army, are the only cultural diet and source of information. Many Marshallese joined the U.S. Army, out of desperation or simply boredom. A number of them are fighting in Iraq.

The main “symbol” of Ebeye is its garbage. It is everywhere, next to the roads and on the beaches. It is the only playground for local children. This garbage includes old and rusting U.S. military and transportation equipment as well as “you don’t ask, we won’t tell” metal containers like the one in the photograph.

Andre Vltchek is a novelist, journalist, filmmaker, and playwright, editorial director of Asiana Press Agency (www.asiana-press-agency.com), co-founder of Mainstay Press (www.mainstaypress.org), and a senior fellow at The Oakland Institute. A contributor to Foreign Policy In Focus (www.fpif.org), he is presently living and working in Asia and South Pacific and can be reached at: andre-wcn@usa.net

 

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Published by Foreign Policy In Focus (FPIF), a project of the Institute for Policy Studies (IPS, online at www.ips-dc.org). Copyright © 2008, Institute for Policy Studies.

Recommended citation:
Andre Vltchek, "Postcard from...Kwajalein," (Washington, DC: Foreign Policy In Focus, June 24, 2008).

Web location:
http://fpif.org/fpiftxt/5320

Production Information:
Author(s): Andre Vltchek
Editor(s): John Feffer
Production: John Feffer

Latest Comments & Conversation Area
Editor's Note: FPIF.org editors read and approve each comment. Comments are checked for content only; spelling and grammar errors are not corrected and comments that include vulgar language or libelous content are rejected.
 
Name NA Date: Jun 24, 2008
As a recent resident of Kwajalein, I find the article to be flawed in the picture it paints of the US role in the RMI and almost offensive in its nature. The picture of the rotting barrell accompanying the article most likely has absolutely nothing to do with the US military. It is more likely that it was discarded by the inhabitants of Ebeye island themselves. Yes, the Marshallese people overall have a very plighted situation, but much of it is at the hands of their own government. There are huge payouts to the Marshallese governement from the US that never see the poeple in need. There seems to be corruption and misappropriations eveywhere. Also, the people of Ebeye in particular choose to have little pride in their surroundings. This is not merely a lack of "want" - I have been told that if they do too well, it will be taken away by the government and/or the Queen. The RMI situation is not simply a story of the big, bad US. However, that seems to be the only story told here. Also, what about the simple question of "What would these people do if the US packed up and went away?" There is almost no other way for anyone to make a living there. Why does no one consider the benefit of having the military next door?
Name Mike Pettitt Date: Jun 30, 2008
Not surprised to see the Slum of the Pacific title still applies to Ebeye and not surprised no balance in the post card's view of Ebeye and the US Army relationship to the Marshallese people.

You assume that large whatever-it-is in the photo originated with the US Army? Why? What evidence?

The great majority of Marshallese migrated from other islands or atolls in the RMI to Ebeye, hoping to either find a job or just to reside with another extended family member living there, as happens in Marshallese custom. Some do blame the military for creating the conditions that led to this overcrowding but as anyone who has visited Ebeye knows, there are other, larger islands directly accessible via reef road from Ebeye (Gugeegue primarily) that are sparsely inhabited. Who should take responsibility for not allowing people to live on Gugeegue - the US or the RMI Government? Who is primarily responsible to address the conditions of cvercrowding?

There is a new hospital on Ebeye (within last few years); US funded with US funded staffing (for most part). It was built after several years of delay, primarily because of, shall we say, "diversion" of funds. I suggest for Mr. Vltchek's next postcard he research and comment on how well the RMI government has accounted for the funds provided by the US, particularly under "Compact I."

RMI Minister of Foreign Affairs Tony DeBrum appears to favor US extension of stay at USAKA but all are waiting for promised proposal by new RMI government (in place since January of this year) for new lease agreement. Thus, at least officially, I don't think anyone knows the RMI government's current official position beyond favoring the US remain at USAKA (US Army Kwajalein Atoll) with a new lease between the RMI Government and the landowners (termed, Land Use Agreement). All await President Litokwa Tomeing's promised proposal.

The military programs referenced are actually the TV program carried by the Armed Forces Network, the same network that serves US military overseas all over the world. The Marshall Islands Govt does have its own radio station and it does broadcast to Ebeye. There are at least two privately owned and operated radio stations on Majuro and a private owned TV broadcast operation on Majuro but apparently neither has been started on Ebeye. The US is not restricting; the only reason for no Marshall Islands owned and operated radio or TV service on Ebeye is because no one on Ebeye has taken the initiative to start. The population is adequate to support both, based on the Majuro model.

You are right about Marshallese (not many, most cannot pass the military entrance test) serving in the US military, including Iraq and Afghanistan. They are proud to serve and their nation and people are proud of them. I don't believe they joined out of desparation or boredom any more that US citizens. I believe they joined because of either a desire to serve or for the education or job benefits offered by the military. Does that make them desparate? Well, as a retired Army officer who joined out of college (not West Point) and subsequently served over 22 years on active duty, put me in the same class and call me proud to be desparate in their company!

Name Anonymous Date: Aug 31, 2008
A somewhat misrepresentation of the situation on Kwaj. Both those indivuals mentioned have made millions from the Americans over land use agreements. They aren't in any hurry for the Americans to depart. Besides USAKA is the largest employer and provides assistence to RMI and KILGOV. I believe there's an agreement in place through 2058, if I'm not mistaken.
 
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